May 24 – May 27
Lisbon, Portugal
We arrived here a day earlier than planned due to an expected port strike. The idea was to get in before the strike and then try to get back out as soon as possible. Strikes are always planned for the most strategic time for their cause and this one was planned for the first big week of the tourist season. Fortunately, it got called off, but we had a day here where the expedition team had to rapidly come up with plans for the extra day.
Lisbon is a historic city at the hub of the pioneering days of the Age of Discovery in the mid-1400s. Portugal was the first to significantly discover the Azores and West Africa and in the 1500s had established ports as far as Brazil, Japan, Africa, India and China. Most of Lisbon was destroyed in a massive earthquake in 1755 and was quickly rebuilt. The city center is very quaint with lots of trees, museums, historic buildings and hundreds of restaurants and clubs. Lisbon is actually not on the coast of either the Atlantic or the Mediterranean, but sits on the Tagus River which is completely navigable by large ships.
A major part of the city’s heritage is reflected in Fado, a soulful genre of music. We had a performance on the ship, and it was characterized by deep, mournful tones, accompanied by the traditional instruments of guitar and mandolin. We would normally have spent the day exploring the center of Lisbon on our own, but I was nursing an injury to my calf and needed to stay off my feet. However, Lisbon and surroundings seem like a wonderful place to come back to where one could easily spend nearly a week with plenty of wonderful things to see and do.
On the first day here, we ended up taking a bus tour that was offered that went through the city, into the nearby Arribada mountains (not really very high) and a quaint fishing village called Sesimbra.
The second day we booked a cruise on a 3-masted sailing boat down the Tagus River. It turned out to be one of our few cloudy and windy days, but we bundled up and still enjoyed it.
Lisbon and surroundings from the Tagus River
I have only a few photos of Lisbon unfortunately due to the timing of the visit and the fact that we only had time to take a bus tour through the city itself. So, all of these photos come from the Tagus River and many are a bit dark due to the weather here.
South of Lisbon: Sesimbra and the Arribada mountains
Vigo, Spain and the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
We left Portugal on the way to a tour of some sites on the west coast of France and made one stop in the town of Vigo, Spain. Vigo is in the northwest of Spain on the Portuguese border. In the 16th-18th centuries the town was quite busy with commercial trade and still is known for having many sunken treasures in the waters off the coast. The area also supports hundreds of mussel farms in the local lakes where they are grown on horizontal systems of ropes suspended in the water by buoys, pipes or floats.
One of the most popular tours here which we attended is a bus ride to the huge Romanesque church in the town of Santiago de Compostela. In the beginning of the 9th century, a hermit called Pelagius saw a mysterious light shining over a Roman tomb forgotten in the middle of a forest. Very soon, the incredible news spread all over the Christian world: the tomb of St. James the Greater, the beloved apostle of Jesus Christ, had been discovered in a far site near the end of the known Earth, in the northwest of Iberian Peninsula. A few years later, this site became a famous pilgrimage town, one of the most important of Christianity. Pilgrims came from all over Europe to reach the city born around the Holy Tomb, exercising a great influence on the surrounding area.
The Way of St James remains a network of pilgrimage routes leading to the cathedral here. Most pilgrims obtain a document called the credencial which gives them access to overnight accommodation along the route. With a stamp at each place the pilgrim has stayed, it provides a record that the journey was accomplished according to an official route and that they will be qualified to receive a Compostela, a certificate of completion of the pilgrimage and a forgiveness of your sins. To earn the Compostela, one needs to walk a minimum of 100 km or cycle at least 200km. Over 400,000 accomplished this in 2022. The large square in the middle of the cathedral and surrounding buildings was filled with people celebrating the end of their journey while nursing their tired bodies.
The church, along with the surrounding buildings and the old town of homes, shops and restaurant was beautiful. Also, something amazing happened here for us – it rained for 20 minutes! One of only a handful of times of rain on the entire trip so far.
That is all for this segment. France is next.